His bow ties, fashion conservatism and careful manners might suggest a certain stuffiness, but to those who know Kenny LaCour, owner of Louisiana's North Shore restaurant Dakota and his New Orleans progeny, Cuvée, the red-headed restaurateur is anything but staid.

His admirers, industry types and foodies alike, are quick to acknowledge the creative spirit and eclecticism of this dapper gent. He must be doing something right. With two highly successful restaurants to his name, LaCour has, in many ways, restored integrity to the food of the New Orleans area. Himself a devotee of simple New Orleans cuisine, the kind he ate as a child, LaCour has never succumbed to creating restaurants where the food that's set before you is inspired by what he describes as a "circus of influences." Obviously lacking a desire to distinguish himself as a culinary ringmaster, he's a proponent of Julia Child's belief in the basics as the foundation for the best food. "Comfortable and familiar food is what I strive for at my restaurants," emphasizes LaCour. "But I tend to get imaginative when I comes to wine."

Oenophiles who visit any of LaCour's restaurants will attest to that. Dakota has one of the finest wine lists in the country, and can proudly boast that its collection has received repeated honors from The Wine Spectator.

LaCour's success with two restaurants and an ever-busy specialty catering business surprises even LaCour, who never set out to be the master of a culinary empire. With Cuvée, he hopes to return to what he finds most exciting-the establishment of a fun fine dining establishment. Only this time, watch out citizenry of New Orleans, LaCour's bringing his show from the North Shore to the city. For twelve years he's been refining his skill on the other side of Lake Ponchartrain, learning that success has a lot to do with the attention you give to details and the awareness you have of the market that feeds your business.

Any other ingredients that LaCour incorporates into his recipe for success? Let's see. In addition to insisting that food be "real," not created solely for its aesthetic impact, he believes in excellent service in a comfortable setting, and a return to civility. This last ingredient is where this Southern gentleman's refinement shines. His restaurants are a manifestation of that refinement and style.

LaCour says, "I would never open a place where I could not be my own best customer. I enjoy dining. I take ideas from my own life and use them in my restaurants. I grew up eating good solid food. I believe that food should be comfortable and that it should be eaten in a comfort."

"I like my job so much that my many of my close friends are in the business, and those who aren't, wish they were. Business and a social life make up my life. I think of everyday as a party."

With that philosophy, how could you possibly think to send regrets?